Coco Rocha's stuffed chicken hat had the Twitterverse aflutter this morning, but the big news at Moschino, especially in view of last season's more-is-the-most show, was how relatively restrained the clothes on the runway looked. Rossella Jardini built her Fall collection on a straightforward idea: the masculine/feminine twist. That meant there were tailcoats and tuxedos and riding jackets, all faultlessly tailored, but with an unexpected detail or two. Precious touches—gold teddy bears and black velvet bows decorating a collar, revers in a rose print, a cummerbund in hot pink—tweaked standard notions of the male uniform. The navy man's standard-issue khaki pants, for example, were reimagined as billowy gold lamé palazzo pants. Accessories—captain's hats and the house's signature gold hoop earrings—extended the metaphor.
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Rich. How else to describe the jacquard coat with the bouclé trim and Indian embellishments that opened Oscar de la Renta's show? Or the purple lamb and fox vest worn over a hand-knit cashmere cardigan and laser-cut leather embroidered suede skirt? This is one designer who was never tempted by the recent minimalism trend, but if he'd curbed his taste for glorious excess in the face of the recession over the last couple of years, his Fall collection signaled an end to that. Some saw in the opulence of the embroideries and the exoticism of such accessories as a paisley silk scarf tucked under a fox fur circlet a play for the emerging (make that emerged) BRIC markets. There's undoubtedly an audience for these kinds of clothes in those countries, but then again de la Renta has always loved mixing a far-flung reference in among his bouclé skirtsuits, sleeveless day dresses, and lavish statement coats. And his Park Avenue crowd has been happy to take him up on it.
Girls on bikes. Of Phillip Lim's satchelful of references for Fall, that was the most interesting. After all, there's something terribly cool about a look that's remarkably stylish, yet not so precious that it'll be compromised by all that pedal-pushing. "It's about these chic women who ride bikes to work, to brunch, to a cocktail party," Lim said backstage before the show. "But how do you make everything functional without sacrificing form?"
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
Walking into the Marc Jacobs show tonight, a retailer remarked, "We have to come here in order to find out what we'll be seeing next season." His point: The lush colors and Lurex that have been everywhere this week were inspired by the ode to the 1970's Jacobs delivered last time out. Well, come next fall, you'd best prepare yourself for plenty of polka dots, a good deal of latex and lace, and a much more fitted silhouette. Backstage, Jacobs himself said the new collection was a reaction against the loose, fluid feeling of his Spring outing. "I wanted something strict and severe," he said.
Monday, February 14, 2011
Saturday, February 12, 2011
Friday, February 11, 2011
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Wednesday, February 9, 2011
American model (b. Feb. 16, 1926, Preston, Md.—d. Jan. 22, 2002, La Quinta, Calif.), became a photographic icon during the 1950s and appeared on over 40 magazine covers. Her defining images were the ones in which Irving Penn captured her seated in a café chewing pensively on a string of pearls and the Erwin Blumenfeld Jan. 1, 1950, Vogue cover, which featured her perfectly penciled left eye, pouty red lips, and a trademark natural beauty mark. She ended her modeling career in 1963.
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Monday, February 7, 2011
Designers went bananas (literally, in Miuccia Prada's case) for quirky patterns this season. Flora, fauna, fruita—you name it, they printed it. Leopard, python, and polka dots ruled at Givenchy, Roberto Cavalli, and Moschino. Too tame for you? Models wore houses on their backs at Mary Katrantzou; and Marco Zanini put Françoise Sagan quotes and paintings by an obscure Swedish artist on his gowns at Rochas.
Sunday, February 6, 2011
The seventies ruled the Spring runways—the Yves Saint Laurent seventies, to be exact. "YSL, you know, my usual fave," Marc Jacobs said backstage, name-checking the inspiration for his gleeful, glam ode to the decade. With last year's hugely successful Saint Laurent retrospective at Paris' Musée des Beaux-Arts, Jacobs wasn't the only one riffing on peasant blouses, safari jackets, vibrant colors, and other elements of the master's oeuvre. See Gucci, Emilio Pucci, and, mais bien sûr, Stefano Pilati's own tribute to the house that Yves built.
Saturday, February 5, 2011
To-the-knee? Sure. Ankle-length? OK. Mid-calf? Huh? Better get used to it—it's time to invest in a new hemline. With the return of ladylike dressing, three-quarter-length skirts are on the rise everywhere from Calvin Klein Collection and Narciso Rodriguez to Rodarte and Roland Mouret. Versus and Prabal Gurung showed them second-skin tight, but Hannah MacGibbon gave Chloé's a lift with pleats, sheer fabrics, and easy-on-the-feet ballet flats.
Printed sheaths not for you? Wouldn't be seen dead in a midi? Don't worry, tailored trousers were also a focus this season. At Derek Lam, a high waist and relaxed leg were in step with the seventies trend, while at Michael Kors, it was all about borrowing from the boys. And for those of you who can't make up your minds, the dress-over-pants look seen at Richard Chai Love promises to remain a big trend through Fall.